Pricking out! (no puns necessary)

Have we all got trays of little seedlings then? If not, this is not the page for you! Go over the previous blog entries on seed sowing and come and join us when you are ready!

Baby tomato seedlings...no need for christening gifts....they are all called Tom

Now, having produced a fine flush of baby plants, we are ready for the next step; pricking out. You will need a range of pots of similar size (for tomatoes 3cm pots will be ideal although they will probably need further potting on prior to being planted in their final positions or in grow bags or where ever you have chosen for them to reside), multi-purpose compost, labels and a patented seedling extraction device....a pencil will do if you don't have one.

MAKE SURE YOU STERILISE THE POTS! Sorry to shout but I want to make sure you don't go falling at the final hurdle!

Loosely fill your pots with compost and tap them against your work surface. Do not compress the compost as we are trying to encourage root growth without making them work too hard (imagine the difference between a bed with sheets, blankets and hospital corners and one with a duvet....wriggle room is what we need!). Now get your finger in the middle and wiggle it around to create a nest for your little plantlets.

Using your patented seedling extraction device.....or pencil, gently ease your seedlings out of the compost. Try to ensure that you don't damage the roots.

Always handle your seedlings by the leaf not the stem! The stems are not strong enough for manhandling....or womanhandling for that matter. Damage at this stage is an open invitation to invasion from nasties like Phytophera and infection can soon spread. And, particularly in tomatoes, adventitious roots will grow from the stem and handling may damage those root buds. So don't do it.....consider yourself told!

I really should do something with those nails, perhaps a nice shade of black?

 

Pop your little seedling into the hole you created earlier. When the compost settles, you want the leaves to be slightly higher than the surrounding compost. The reasons for this are; firstly those adventitious roots I mentioned (this will help to stabilise the young plant and provide more roots to seek out nutrients) and secondly to prevent the plant from going 'leggy' and snapping in the slightest breeze.

Gently firm the compost around the seedling and water. You may have to do some more rearranging after you have watered. I would not advise using a rose on your watering device (the round thing with all the holes in it) as you may splash compost all over those little food factory leaves.

label your little babies to avoid confusion and pop somewhere warm. Give them a week before starting to harden them off (popping them outside during the day so that they get used to what a big ole nasty world it really is!). Do not start hardening off them if the weather is really cold. This may mean cluttered window sills for a few weeks, but think of all those yummy tomatoes!!

A final word:

Remember! Only pot on the big boys. Cast aside the runts and put them on the compost heap. Harden those hearts! You want to select the strongest, Darwin would be proud!








Another final word: If you are potting on small seedlings like Lobelia, you might want to consider potting on small clusters of the seedlings....I will add some pictures underneath when I get round to doing mine. Now....time for a cuppa?

Seed sowing the Monkey way... [part the first]

Ms Monkey is all in a tizz, February is nearly over and I have not started on my seed sowing. Time to rectify this! Over the course of this week I will be explaining, step-by-step, how to sow your seeds and by following my tried and trusted methods (shamelessly ripped off from the RHS but delivered with more humour and better eyeliner), you should experience a modicum of success.

Step 1: Prepare your maternity unit

Oh bugger!

A south facing window sill or heated greenhouse is ideal (at this time of year, heating is necessary as seedlings will sulk and die without toastie growing media). I use my south facing kitchen window sill....unfortunately, this is also my repository for tender plants during the winter. It also seems to be the nursery unit for a large number of spiders. Now, I appreciate the valiant job that spiders do in keeping the number of insects down to vaguely tolerable levels, however, I'd be a lot more comfortable if they did it in someone else's house! Especially as there have been several, local incidents of people being bitten by the dreaded false widow spider (not that I'd know a false widow if it bit me on the arse.....well, I would then; as my bottom would swell up to hideous proportions....this may have already happened.....I digress).

Clean and shiny! (fairy lights are optional)

Having got all of the junk out of the way (hidden up in the workshop, while I cross everything that we've seen the last of the frosts), it's time for a little cleaning. I cannot emphasise enough that proper hygiene is vital to success with seeds. You will find me banging on about it again and again, but believe me when I say that there are countless bacteria and fungi, lurking out there that want to munch on your babies. So roll up your sleeves, put on your pinny (the design of which is up to you....mine is, of course, black) and bleach the hell out of everything. At this juncture I would like to point out that I am well aware that bleach is not the most environmentally friendly of products. You could use a baby steriliser, such as Milton (not that either of my boys were ever particularly sterile at any given time.....this has not improved with age!) but I'm not entirely sure how environmentally friendly that is either. But if you don't sterilise all of your equipment, I can practically guarantee that you will loose seedlings to some kind of infection! It is also worth ensuring that your windows are clean and that you have nothing blocking the light.....ah!

Oh great! I can't even get to the window!

An enjoyable hour of hacking with shears produces a window and a surprise gas meter!

Remember seeds need the following factors to germinate:

1. Viability - Are your seeds fresh? Or have they been tucked in the back of a cupboard for ten years? Go and get some new ones....Yes, I know sell by dates are all hokum with regard to food, but this is a plant embryo we are talking here. It has not been cryogenically frozen, it has been bunged in a packet.....And, no, I don't care if they managed to germinate seeds from Tutankhamun's tomb...do you have a micro-prop lab in your kitchen? Have your seeds been hermetically sealed in an ancient tomb? Didn't think so...
2. Temperature - Don't start them outside if they are plants from warmer climbs, bred as annual bedding for example. It just won't work. The seed packet should give you an idea of the minimum and maximum temperature required. If you are not sure what you have, I will include a handy guide in an upcoming section to all those terms you find on seed packets. You will understand the difference between HP and HA and know your F1's from your F2's by the time I have finished with you!
3. Water - We all like a nice drinky poo, seeds are no different. Too little and they will dry out too much and they will drown. We will talk on this further...
4. Oxygen - I refer you to point 3 and over watering. There are also some seeds that require treatment, to enable the oxygen and water to reach the embryo. Ipomea indica (morning glory), for example; require soaking prior to sowing. Canna indica (Indian shot) require the seed casing to be cut prior to sowing. Yes, it can get really complicated....

Part the second will cover some sowing techniques for a variety of seeds that can be started now and the tools that you will need. Right, I'm off for a cup of tea....